Il-Marsa Ta L-Inglizi

English members of the Jockey Club used to organise horse races in the hill of Mdina, as the Maltese used to do during the time of the Order. After Marsa was obtained, the first races occurred there in 1869. The interest in horse races and sport also created another aspect of work. Since before the war, horses were also used for transport. In 1906 H.J. Tomlin had started the St. Andrew's Stables near the track and the polo ground. Opposite the track there was also the Grand Stand Stables of P.J. Saliba who was renowned for the training of race horses. Other developments in Marsa occurred recently. These made it an attraction for the large crowds of people that like horse races.



A monument for Balbi
As a reminder of their good will, a beautiful monument was placed in Triq Balbi itself near the church. It was shown on Monday 23 May, 1988 by Reverend Patri Dumnik Mangani, parish priest in the presence of its sculpture Anton Agius from Rabat and other persons. The monument, made of bronze, represents Mrs. Karmena Balbi seated and her husband standing beside her.



Marsa
In the inner part of the Grand Harbour there are the well-protected creeks of Marsa, an important place since olden times. In the map of Malta that Jean Quentin published in 1536, there is indicated the place Marsa Hortus. Since the oldest times, the place was known as Il-Marsa, an Arabic word that means a port where ships anchor themselves. The creek was also known as Taz-Zewg Marsiet, one with the name Marsa z-Zghira, and the other with the name Marsa l-Kbira. The former was also known as Xatt il-Qwabar, which started near Bridge Wharf up to where the Gas Works were built. Qwabar is the plural of the world qabru, which is an amphibious organism like the crab, and sometimes the Qabru was called a freshwater crab. It might have been common in this area. We also find snails having the shape of a heart, with a black shell, which used to be found in the creek and was called arzell tal-Marsa. In the inner part there is the Marsa l-Kbira, which ends up near the church of Cejlu. It had also become known as Portu Novu. The two creeks are separated from the Gholja tal-Gizwiti, behind which there is the large plain land that goes up to the outskirts of Hal Qormi. Here, one can notice the low level of the land and valleys, one called Wied is-Sewda, and the other Wied il-Kbir, which both end there.



Long ago, even before the arrival of St. Johns Knights, the low creek used to go up to the edges of Hal Qormi, like Tac-Caghqi or the Erba Qaddisin, where many pebbles and sand were found. The low-lying areas used to collect dirty still water that caused many cases of malaria. The freshwater use to meet the seawater here. Since olden times the people who sought shelter in these areas used to live by farming and by growing crops. It is said that there used to be common rush, kanal tas-salur, a place filled with arched sea snails, and an inlet filled with fish. The archaeological findings that occurred in different places of Marsa show that since long ago this place was well-known amongst the people that lived in our country and recognised the importance of the shelter that this places creeks offer.



How the name originated
Besides Marsa there are four other places in our country whose name consists of the word Marsa joined to another word. These are Marsamxett, Marsaxlokk, Marsascala, and Marsalforn. Each have something to do with the sea, and all make part of a harbour, if they themselves are not harbours. Il-Marsa was so known as doubtlessly it controlled the inner important port. The megalithic remains in Kordin and close by areas, as well as other Phoenician and Roman remains on the Gholja tal-Gizwiti indicate clearly that the harbour was regarded as an important necessity by these people.



DEVELOPMENTS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY Il-Portu Novu (The New Port)
With the opening of the Suez Canal, Malta was given an importance greater than it had. Therefore this required a larger seaport, and this was to be built on the Marsa side. In 1800 the Government had already shown interest as a seaport could be built there so as to serve as shelter to ships during storms. During the time of Governor Le Marchant (1859), the project wa taen seriously and it was estimated at a price of 250,000 pounds. Work started in 1861. So as to make way, all plains, pools and marshes had to be removed. Many worked on this for six years. While working on the land, they discovered many ancient objects, amongst them marble columns, statues and pottery jars. Stone baths which were also used for fish were found. Remains of a large building in the beginning of Kordin hill was excavated. When the Portu Novu was completed, a dock basin having an area of 38,000 square yards was added to the main construction having an area of 170,000 square yards. The work for this new construction, which was under the control of contractors, was designed by architects Andrews and Galizia.
The Admiralty paid its share of 187,110 pounds, and the Maltese Treasury paid 73,610 pounds, besides several other expenses that it made. The Government Council, had to pay another 660 pounds for the work on the port, lamps, and gas. The Portu Novu had a customs house and stores that costed 7,312 pounds. In the area in which the lawyer Guzeppi Zammit had built the Madonna tal-Grazzja church, some businessmen had constructed their own storehouses, factories, or homes. Some merchandise tents and coal magazines were also built. The seaport consists of high quays and wharfs. Later on a metal bridge was constructed, and this went to the path that led to the inlet. This was constructed under the direction of engineer Fredrick Jones.



Marsa in olden times
At least since the Phoenician times the surroundings of Marsa were used, mostly the hill of Kortin that afterwards became known as tal-Gizwiti. In November 1918, while the planning of the land in Marsa was taking place a cave was found. The cave, excavated in the rock, was about 25 feet long, 5 feet wide and 6 high. The cave was filled with rocks and soil that had fallen there when a part of the cave’s weak ceiling had collapsed. Human bones were found arranged like those of Burmghez, but there were some who said that the pottery was from the Bronze Age. On a layer of black pebbles and a container 20 inches long by 15 wide with a concave face, a large stone that most probably was used to filter the oil out of olives was found. In one end, the stone had an opening and a spout so that the liquid would filter out from the topmost layer. On a higher level Punic pottery was found. The cave seems to have been used as a dwelling place by Bronze Age people and then as a cemetery, most probably in the early Punic time. Near this cave some rock-cut tombs were found. These tombs were of an early type, perhaps of the 5th Century A.D.



Punic Tombs
In 17th July 1968 some Punic tombs were found on the site were the Power Station was being built. In the tombs pottery was found, most of the objects being broken, though a vase with an architectonic design and an old oil lamp were found in a good condition. Some broken skeletal remains were found here. On the hill of tal-Gizwiti a tomb had been found, most probably Phoenician, with a well-preserved skeleton in two large containers. This was in 1861. Many burials like those in containers were found near the Gas Works in 1860.



Roman Remains:
The Marsa creek had been an important port for the Romans, and therefore throughout the years, people who were interested frequently noticed some remains of this empire that had reigned in our country for many centuries. Gan Frangisk Abela even mentions a tiny islet in the inner creek where we nowadays find Marsa tal-Inglizi and says that a Greek cemetery was found on it. During Grand Master Pintos reign in 1766-68 the foundations of two groups of storage silos were found beneath the Kordin hill, each having rectangular rooms. On each side of the large building a rock-cut cistern was found, one slightly larger than the other. H. Lewis states that the dimensions were as follows: 115 feet by 80 feet and 100 feet by 65 feet respectively. The Marquis Carl Antonio Barbaro had shown interest in this discovery and had written about it in a book he published in 1794. Amongst other things 260 containers or amphorae with Greek lettering engraved on them were found, and these were used for the transport of wine and other products. Coins that varied since the 3rd Century B.C. when the Romans took Malta shortly before the Arabs were found. Other findings that occurred during the Knights time included baths or thermae, columns, and a marble statue. Other findings occurred later every time that some excavation was taking place.



Roman Tombs
While excavation in a field was taking place for a foundation in front of the Biccerija (Butchery), in 26th June 1947, some tombs were found. In these, some bone remains and pottery of the Roman time were found. A few years before, in the 22nd of May 1933, excavation was being carried on so as to build the foundation of a house in San Mikiel Street and a tomb dug in rock was found. It also contained some bones and pottery, and it was said that this tomb was most probably of the 3rd Century A.D.



Population
In medieval times and for long afterwards, il-Marsa used to make part of St. Georges parish of Hal Qormi. However, when Hamrun got separated , the territory of Marsa was again separated between Hamrun and Hal Qormi, until in 1913 Marsa became an independent village with the land which was previously separated. The place on which the Marsa parish church is nowadays built used to make part of the three villages of Hal Qormi, Hamrun and Rahal Gdid.
It is said that in 1890 there were 6200 people residing in Marsa, with a total of 200 houses. This indicates that while the port was being developed, people started to settle there. As the authorities had found a solution to the malaria-ridden waters, the population could now thrive. This problem could have had an effect on the development of habitation even in olden times: historians indicate that in medieval times villages in central and Eastern Malta used to be built on a higher level than that of the surrounding area, and there was the tendency to avoid the coast and low places, perhaps because of the malaria.
However, with the development of the Port il-Gdid (Portu Novu), Marsa started to grow like a town does. By 1913, it was noted that this area was always increasing in the total number of houses and factories. It had a population of several thousands of people. There were about 4000 people. In the official statistics of 1931 7,867 people were registered, while in 1948, the population had risen to 11,560 and there was an increase of 46.94%. However, after this the population started to decrease again: there were 10,672 in 1957, 9,722 in 1967, and 7,927 in 1985. This means that up to the last report there was a decrease of 18.20%. It is worthwhile noting that in 1921 Marsa was placed in the fifth district which included ir-Rahal il-Gdid and Hal Tarxien while from 1947 onwards it was placed in the first district with the Capital City Valletta.



Albert Town
In 1975, the businessmen Guzeppi Zammit and his brother, who had a large property in the area known as Ta Cejlu, considered building a tiny town where the people who worked in the new seaport could live. The plan of the New Town was made by the architect Ovidio Doublet, and when it was time to give it a name, it was considered calling it Victoria, but the Governor proposed calling it Albert Town, in memory of Prince Albert, Queen Victorias husband, as there already was a town called Vittoriosa. The ceremony for the placing of the first stone of the town was prepared. this occurred in 22nd July 1875. The Archbishop Carmelo Scicluna blessed the stone that was placed by Lady Van Straubenzee. The Governor Sir Charles T. Van Straubenzee said a short speech and concluded as follows: I lay this stone, hoping that the future town may contain a prosperous, worthy and contented community and prove remunerative to its spirited projectors. Guzeppi Zammit and his brother also spoke, and he explained his idea that he and his brother found this new town. For the ceremony there were the civil, naval and Maltese military authorities, besides a quite large group of Maltese citizens. The Archpriest Dun Anton Albanese said a few words of celebration in Italian and so ended the ceremony. A lot of money was spent on designs and buildings, but the town didn't proceed further than that. However, buildings started to be built around 1890 and there were 620 people and 200 houses. Around 1963 there were about 62 families residing there.



The Marsa Entrenchment
In 1798 the Maltese islands fell into French hands and were managed by the General Bonaparte. However the Maltese didnt take long to turn against them and lock them behind the bastions of Valletta an Cottonera. In Marsa an entrenchment was set up by the Maltese of the countryside, who started the blockade against the French. Mikiel Cachia is mentioned, master builder of the Order, who completed many military works in the area near the Menqa where there was an old Turkish cemetery. He also joined the fish market to the sea. It couldnt have been avoided that some actions of the Blockade took place there - this part looked upon the street that went up to the Bieb tal-Bombi. In the entrenchment of Marsa many Maltese were stationed, and they revolted against the French and showed great bravery. Some were on the Kortin Hill and in the area of the Menqa harbour. In 15th February 1799, when the Maltese of the countryside attacked part of the bastions of Bormla, they used boats that they had brought from Marsaxlokk to Marsa by pulling them painfully on land.



Old Cannonballs
Around 35 cannonballs, made of a heavy metal of the early 17th Century, were found in 10th June 1968, while excavation for Electricity and Water Plant was taking place. The findings were investigated by Sir F.S. Mallia, the Director of the Museum.



Silos
The Grand Master Pinto built nineteen silos with a church in the Marsa harbour. He payed their cost and the cost of other buildings in St. Elmo from the funds he collected from the church of tal-Erwieh of Valletta, for which he was rector. In 1768 this Grand Master gave orders to widen the main road, which was cut out of rock in the middle of Kortin hill. A canal was opened so that the water could be drained after rainfall, and a new port was built on the side of Xatt il-Qwabar. So that they could complete the street cut in rock, they had to build a wide wall in the middle of the water.



An Historic Villa
Gan Frangisk Abela, nowadays known as the Father of the Maltese History had built a villa on Kortin Hill. He called it Villa San Giacomo, the saint of Castilles langue, of which he was the chaplain. It was a beautiful villa in which he kept collections of antique items found in our country. It was like the first museum of archaeology in Malta. Around it was a garden decorated with trees and plants, fountains, and marble statues. Abela left the villa to the Jesuits and they gave their name to the villa, which ended up abandoned, and to the hill.



The Knights Times
The Order of St. John reigned in Malta from 1530 onwards, and we can say that it appreciated the value of Marsa immediately. Marsa also had a role to play in the siege of 1551 and the other of 1565. In 1551 the Maltese Islands were sieged by a Turkish force. Amongst other events, a battle occurred right in Marsa, in which the Maltese, led by the knights Upton and Guimeran, defeated the Turks. Marsa is one mile from Valletta (1.6 km). In the Siege of 1565 when the Turks attacked in a greater force, they set up their tents in the plains of Marsa, the closest land between Birgu and Fort St. Elmo, and from which they could get their water. In one of the assaults in June in which the Turks were defeated after an attack on St. Elmo, they had to retreat to prepare for the last attack. Next day the Turkish camp turned into a hospital - beside the battle-wounded, there were the sick, and without knowing it their intestines were being destroyed. It was the water that had been poisoned by doctor Camilli Rossi under an order by the Grand Master. As there were several wells with water fine to drink, the Grand Master decided to poison them so as not to serve the enemy. Besides that, the camp was attacked by surprise by the knights, and this attack caused great damage and pain to the enemies.



The Inheritance of Marsa
That Marsa was an important place during the Arab time we can conclude from the name itself. The name means The Port. During the medieval times Marsa was inherited from one to the other. In 1372, the lands known as ta Chalkia, Duetias, and Chamina, which were close by, were given on a lease of four tummoli of wheat to Salvu de Inbruglu. Later on we find that in 1416 the Segreto, which was an important office for the King, as it took care of his interests in royal lands, was given the right of a beurajo of the value of three weights on the possession of Marsa. Afterwards, in 1430, a Carafellus Carrafa from Naples inherited the land. We find that the profit from this land increased two fold twice. In September 4 1441, the King Alfonso sold the land to Pietru de Busco, a noble knight who was also in the Segreto, for the price of 3,164 ducats. However, he had confiscated wealth and money which were taken to Sicily to make up for the debt he had to the government. In 1447 the land was taken by de Buscos mother as a payment of jus relevii. Later, it was confiscated by Petrus Gonzalves de la Rua and in 1452 a part was taken by Didaku Grayera and another part by de Busco's wife, Paola.
When the land fell in royal arms again, King John sold it to the noble John de Nava with a decree in 10th August 1475. Marsa was then inherited by de Navas descendants until Ettore Pignatelli, the Viceroy of Sicily, bought the land from Alvaro de Nava for 4000 florin in 17th January 1531 with Emperor Carl Vs consent. The land of Marsa, that had the title of Barony, and sometimes divided in two, was considered as the best land in Malta. It had fields, wells, and water, and it produced a range of goods. The Emperor Carl V had given it to the Order of St. John, but it wasnt until 13th July 1581, during La Cassieres time, that Marsa was bought from Camillo Pignatelli, the duke of Monteleone, for the price of 11,000 skudos. In the time of the Order of St. John, the barony of Marsa was given the importance that it was due. In 12 June 1725 the Grand Master De Vilhena gave the title to Ferdinando Castelletti, who was the Captain of the Virga from 1733 to 1740. He had to give the contribution of a gun to the Grand Master in St. Anthony of Padovas day. Later on the Grand Master Pinto gave the land to Antonio Azzoppardi Castelletti in 20th January 1746. He was expected to present him with a bunch of flowers on 1st May. On the 8th of March 1776 the Grand Master De Rohan gave the land to Giovanni Francesco Dorell Falzon who on the anniversary of the investiture was expected to give him a horse with a saddle.



Christian Catacombs
In May 1874 in the northern side of the Gizwiti Hill, a catacomb or cemetery was found dug in the rock. It consisted of 43 tombs. It was said that it had been constructed by the Romans and was used by Christians. Amongst the interesting remains in the catacomb, which was closed some time later, a tombstone was found. This tombstone was said to have been of the fifth or sixth century A.D. On its face an inscription and a carved vessel were found:
Alla Kbir
Fluvius Titus
Ghex LV sena
Il-pajzani,
ghat-tjieba li jisthoqqlu
ghamlulu.
A plan of the cemetery was placed in the Museum of Archaeology. Almost a hundred years later, in 1969, while work on the Power Station was taking place, some remains of a catacomb were found. Some skeleton heads were found, but the pottery had been stolen. One should keep in mind that this area had been disturbed often to make way for industrial buildings and other works.



Silo Remains
It is probable that the Romans had their storage silos in Marsa so that there they would be able to unload the cargo and goods from the coast. The historian G.F. Abela mentions a large stone on which there was written that the quay was 1500 steps long and made by the Romans. Quay buildings with large stones were found in the lower part, and most probably its streets went up to the silos. One of the roads went towards Wied il-Kbir where it connects with Wied Qirda, went along the hill and up to Siggiewi. Both sides had rectangular stones beside each other, and small stones in between.



Remains that were found in 1956 indicate all this. These remains show the foundations of olden silos and barriers in Triq l-Istalel that could have served as a sheltered passage for small vessels that went there in search for shelter from storms. Other parts of Roman buildings were found while digging the foundation of a house in 6th April 1939, in Tigrija Street. In the exposed part a layer covered with burnt bones and some rectangular holes cut in rock and cemented over could be seen. Pottery and money from the 4th Century B.C. up to the 3rd Century A.D. were found in these areas. These were proof of the commercial activity taking place in those times.



The Turkish Cemetery
Before the recent cemetery, there was another one known as Tat-Torok, or better as Muslim. This was already built before 1675 and they used to bury Turkish slaves that died here. This was changed into a piece of land upon which the current cemetery was built. The land was given by the local Government. In 11th June 1873, Antonio Nahum Duharcy who was the Ottoman Sultans Consul and the Hon. Dr. Giovanni Battista Trapani, Collector of Territorial Revenue went to the notary F.S. Camilleri, where they signed the contract in which the local Government gave the land known as Ta Sammut so that a new cemetery could be built there and instead the Turkish Consul gave the old cemetery. The cemetery was built from the money of the Turkish Government for the burial of the Muslims. It was built in 1874 using a Muslim architectonic style, design by architect E.L.Galizia. When it was completed the remains from the old cemetery were taken to the new cemetery. In March 1928, when the Knight F.K. Gollcher was the General Consul of Turkey, there were 103 unidentified Muslims buried there, 24 that had died in an accident on board the ship Sardegna, 6 French, 6 English, and 23 Turkish prisoners of war that died in Malta. Two inscriptions, one in Turkish and another in French say : Meta x-xemx titghawweg, u l-kwiekeb jibdew jaqghu, mill-oqbra mhattmin mill-mewt, iqumu mqallbin, u minn din is-sodda ta' trab. imqajmin mir-raqda, johorgu kollha dija, ulied tad-din u tat-talba.



Spencer's Monument
Captain Sir Robert Cavendish Spencer (1791-1830), who had a great career in the Royal Navy, became well known in Malta after 1815. He used to live in Valletta, and became known for the receptions he used to give. In 24th November, 1830, The Government Newspaper gave out the news of his death on the frigate Madagascar near Alexandria in 4th November. Spencer was brought to Malta and was buried in a simple tomb in the lower part of St. Michael's Bastion, Valletta, in 12th December, and afterwards the frigate's crew built an obelisk as a remembrance. The design of this monument was made by the architect Gorg Pullicino and was first placed on Kordin in April 1831. It was completed in 14th June. Later, in March 1893, the monument was placed in Blata l-Bajda and the are became known as Spencer Hill.




Gentleman With All Marsa Information
Without these two man I would have not been able to present this important and valuable information about Marsa and its history they took many hours researching many archives at local and city libraries. Again thanks for you help and I am sure you will be always remembered for all the work you do in your organization hopefully they are going to publish booklets to pass their information to the younger generation.